The following instruction apply to all Autofashion self
assembly quad headlight conversion kits. We supply these kits for a number of
different vehicles.
All kits include the light units (normally Hella and always
halogen), along with various fibreglass mouldings. You are required to source
your own nuts/bolts/springs etc, and to drill all holes and assemble the unit
yourself. This can take between half an hour if you have done one before up to
about 2 hours if you have not. Although the kits require assembly by the
customer they do offer very significant savings when compared to fully assembled
units, and are usually around half the cost.
Each conversion kit is different but they generally fall into
two categories. The first is the pod type (or single part) unit which contains a
single fibreglass unit into which the lights are fitted, and which itself fixes
to the car – the Escort mark 4 falls into this category. The second (and most
common) is the two part unit which has a rear support unit (unseen when fitted),
into which the lights are fitted, which itself fixes to the car, and a front
cover or mask, which fixes only to the support – the Escort Mk5 and Mk6 fall
into this category.
GENERAL FITTING.
It should be noted from the outset that these units are a
very good fit if assembled correctly and accurately, but that complications can
occur if the car has been even lightly damaged, corroded or modified in other
ways. These complications are in themselves not normally too complicated to
overcome, often just some trimming, or ovalling of holes, but it should be
understood that quad headlight units are far more "fussy" about
accident damage than most of the other customising parts we supply. They will
normally fit perfectly in a perfect car, but the truth is that most cars are not
perfect and some larger or smaller degree of adjustment is likely to be
necessary.
SINGLE PART UNIT
The single part unit comes with 4 larger lights approximately
5.75" in diameter, 4 saucer shaped backing rings, and two large mouldings.
The pods have a recessed stepped section in each of the four
pods, which must be cut out. This can be done with a hole saw, jigsaw, or other
cutting tools. If you do not have these then a very easy way is to drill a
number of small holes all the way around, and then file it smooth after removing
the centre. Once removed this will allow the light unit to sit inside.
There are also four saucer section backing rings, which must
be bonded onto the back of the headlight. First they must also have the centres
removed as above. Once removed they require 3 equally distant holes to be
drilled in the backing ring, which should be 7mm in diameter. Insert a M6 x 50
mm bolt into each backing ring hole, with the head on the rough fibreglass side,
and a nut on the smooth side. Do this with all 12 holes.
The backing ring must now be bonded onto the headlight.
Firstly try the ring in position, and on the inside of the backing ring where
they touch, and on the back of the headlight where they touch sand the surface
with a course (40 grit) sandpaper to help the bonder. Clean and run a bead
around the joint before bringing the two into contact. Bind round the outside of
the light between the light and backing ring, with black insulation tape –
this will keep the bonding adhesive in place whilst it sets, will keep
everything cleaner, and give a better finish to the outside. Many adhesives take
around 24 hours to cure after which time you cannot remove the ring if you try
– it has to be cut off with a new Stanley knife for replacement should it
become necessary.
It is now a fairly straightforward matter of mounting the 4
headlight/adjuster assemblies into the two conversion pods. This requires the
drilling of 12 holes in the relevant positions. Springs are normally inserted
between the light and pod to allow full adjustment, although washers can also be
used. A wingnut should be fitted on the inside of the pod to allow adjustment.
TWIN PART UNIT
The twin part unit comes with 2 larger lights approximately
5.75" in diameter, 2 smaller lights approximately 3.5" in diameter, 2
saucer shaped backing rings, and four large mouldings.
The four main mouldings all have areas to be cut. This can be
done with a hole saw, jigsaw, or other cutting tools. If you do not have these
then a very easy way is to drill a number of small holes all the way around, and
then file it smooth after removing the centre.
There are also two saucer section backing rings, which must
be bonded onto the back of the headlight. First they must also have the centres
removed as above. Once removed they require 3 equally distant holes to be
drilled in the backing ring, which should be 7mm in diameter. Insert a M6 x 50
mm bolt into each backing ring hole, with the head on the rough fibreglass side,
and a nut on the smooth side. Do this with all 6 holes.
The backing ring must now be bonded onto the headlight.
Firstly try the ring in position, and on the inside of the backing ring where
they touch, and on the back of the headlight where they touch sand the surface
with a course (40 grit) sandpaper to help the bonder. Clean and run a bead
around the joint before bringing the two into contact. Bind round the outside of
the light between the light and backing ring, with black insulation tape –
this will keep the bonding adhesive in place whilst it sets, will keep
everything cleaner, and give a better finish to the outside. Many adhesives take
around 24 hours to cure after which time you cannot remove the ring if you try
– it has to be cut off with a new Stanley knife for replacement should it
become necessary.
The two smaller light units come with an adjustment bracket,
which is used to fix the lights to the support unit. After removal of the
existing headlight it is normally fairly obvious how the support fits to the
car, since it follows roughly the same shape, and can only be fitted one way.
Once roughly in position the cover or mask can be fitted.
Careful inspection around the rim of the support unit, and the mask will show
that there are marks, which correspond to each other. Small holes should be
drilled in each and then screwed up so the conversion is now fitted – albeit
without the lenses themselves. Carefully check bonnet/grill/wing and bumper
clearances and adjust as required.
Once happy remove the mask, and trial fit the lenses. This is
now a fairly straightforward matter of mounting the 4 headlight/adjuster
assemblies onto the two support units. This requires the drilling of holes in
the relevant positions. Springs are normally inserted between the light and pod
to allow full adjustment, although washers can also be used. A wingnut should be
fitted on the inside of the pod to allow adjustment.
Some trial and error may be necessary to obtain the correct
position of the lenses so that the centre of the lens shows through the holes,
which have to be drilled in the mask.
WIRING.
The outer lens (larger if there are different sizes) will use
your existing wiring to your headlight. Sometimes there is also wiring for the
inner light – if not it is simply wired as a driving lamp when on main beam
using a standard relay.
PAINTING.
These units are designed to be painted to match the car.
There may be minor scratches, or the impressions of cracks on the fibreglass
surface – this is nothing to worry about, and will disappear during normal
preparation to paint. Firstly the unit should be cleaned with panel wipe to
remove and residual wax from manufacture, and then sanded with an 80 grit dry
sandpaper to key for primer. The use of 2 pack materials is recommended. Full
instructions on the website.
SAFETY.
These units are made from fibreglass. Goggles and facemask
should be worn at all times when cutting or sanding these products, and gloves
are also highly recommended to prevent injury.
